MACON - The Center of Georgia

PART ONE: The Center of Georgia - Chapter One


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INTRODUCTION & HISTORY

A Center of Attraction from the Earliest Times




Nestled beside the Ocmulgee River, Macon's lush forests and rolling hills attracted settlement long before written history. The fruitful fields and mild climate sustained some of the earliest known North American cultures and eventually piqued the interest of European explorers. After Hernando DeSoto arrived, the location grew in importance as a trading post and treaty meeting place. Macon became a thriving city; and, spared the ravages of the Civil War, created its place among Georgia's premier communities.

Because so many of Macon's older homes have been restored
and several serve as museum homes, this city has become a
favorite stopping point on "Georgia's Antebellum Trail." Photography by Ken Krakow.

City overlook.
Macon's geographical location on both banks of the Ocmulgee River and just 18 miles northwest of the actual center of Georgia, earned it the name "The Central City of Georgia" as early as 1879. Photography by Ken Krakow.

For more than 10,000 years, the towering pine trees, fertile soil, and temperate climate of the site where Macon now stands sustained inhabitants and attracted new settlement. This pristine area along Georgia's fall-line, an imaginary line where the hilly Piedmont from the north meets the sedate Coastal Plain stretching to the Atlantic Ocean, provided an accessible meeting place and trading site. The river waters of the Ocmulgee, pronounced "oak-mull-ghee" and meaning "boiling water" in the Hitchiti Indian tongue, allowed navigation throughout the region as it joined the other rivers in the area. Macon's geographical location on both banks of the Ocmulgee River and just 18 miles northwest of the actual center of Georgia, earned it the name "The Central City of Georgia" as early as 1879.

Situated, too, at the heart of Dixie, Macon's character is undoubtedly New Southern, a fascinating blend of progressive thinking and respect for history. Maconites exude the famous Southern hospitality, embracing visitors and newcomers with a surprising warmth and graciousness. Elegant introductory remarks flow freely at business meetings, and superb impromptu speeches frequently highlight social gatherings. People here liberally extend invitations to join any of their numerous churches, community organizations, or business groups.

Two students in archway. When much of the "civilized" world questioned the propriety of
educating women, Macon's Georgia Female College, now called
Wesleyan College, granted them degrees. Photography by Michael A. Schwarz.

With gentility not forgotten from the antebellum days, Macon retains its Southern flavor and blends it with the vitality of contemporary living.

One local historian and tour director, R. Martin Willett, explained that what makes Macon stand out are "the people, the place, and the pride." The diverse population here maintains the steadfast course for a strong and safe community, continually looking to improve Macon's impressive quality of life. According to the 1990 census, the city held more than 100,000 residents, and Bibb County counted over 150,000 people. The citizens represent virtually every race and religion, yet they share a common appreciation for their Macon home and the sense of community it offers.

In the years of its existence, Macon's people have repeatedly demonstrated their determination, creativity, and dedication and filled the record books with achievements of all kinds. When much of the "civilized" world questioned the propriety of educating women, Macon's Georgia Female College, now called Wesleyan College, granted them degrees. When the northern states dominated baseball, the Macon Peaches professional South Atlantic League baseball team featured such legends as Pete Rose and Tony Perez. When air travel seemed an uncertain venture, the first commercial airplane cotton crop-dusting experiments took place here and that enterprise later became Delta Airlines. When rock-and-roll music spilled across the airwaves, famous musicians like Otis Redding and "Little Richard" Penniman brought their Macon heritage to the scene. Not all attempts at fame and fortune produce success, but the city's list of "firsts" and notable citizens runs long and certainly adds to the sense of pride Maconites feel.

The place itself, now a contrasting mosaic of historic buildings, and modem structures, grew partially from energetic efforts at the Macon Chamber of Commerce and other business organizations and also from its convenient mid-state location. The city's economy continues to benefit from the central location as it draws new businesses and encourages expansions of existing facilities. Like the hub of a spoked wheel, Macon serves as the intersection of many highways and freeways extending outward to reach all parts of the state and beyond. It takes no more than four hours to go from here to the Gulf of Mexico, just under three hours to reach Savannah, and slightly over one hour to arrive in Atanta.

Yoshino cherry trees.

A chorus of 2,000 Yoshino cherry trees burst into clouds of delicate pink blossoms to welcome everyone each spring. Photography by Dorothy Hibbert Krakow.

Macon's crowning place along the fall-line also ensures a mild blend of maritime and continental climate types, with temperatures annually averaging near 65°F and sunny skies prevailing about two-thirds of the time. Such fair weather promotes agriculture in the area and encourages magnificent gardens all year long. The climate, combined with the gently rolling terrain, invites a multitude of recreational activities from camping and fishing to golf and baseball. Outdoor events, including the spring Cherry Blossom Festival and the fall Arrowhead Arts & Crafts Festival keep calendars packed full. As one resident put it, "It's not a problem to find something to do here; the problem is finding enough time to do it all!"

Macon's people and its place rightfully engenders pride among those who live here. However, do remember that as Southerners, Maconites rarely verbalize their pride (it just wouldn't be polite). They're much more likely to subtly show off their city with a dignified smile, knowing Macon easily impresses a fellow Southerner or newcomer from any region or country. Maconites seem to intuitively understand that the foundation of this thriving community rests on its expansive history, centralized location, and detemmined progressiveness. With these components balanced, Macon shines among Georgia's premier cities.

Prehistoric Beginnings

Prehistoric whale skeleton.

This 40-million year old whale skeleton was unearthed near Macon and is now on display at the Museum of Arts & Sciences. Photography by Ken Krakow.

Millions of years ago during the Paleozoic period, sea waters gently rolled to the shores here. When they receded to the Atlantic Ocean, they left behind critical clues to Earth's ancient beginnings. Some of the world's largest kaolin deposits remained here and entombed early vegetation and life forms. Among the numerous fossils preserved, a 40-million-year-old whale skeleton was unearthed near Macon in addition to shark teeth, sand dollars, and other sea creatures. Today, the Museum of Arts & Sciences on Forsyth Road displays the reconstructed whale and many other fascinating artifacts.

Ocmulgee National Monument artifacts.

The Ocmulgee National Monument, part of the National Park System
since 1936, displays artifacts of the human inhabitants here 10,000 years ago.
Photography provided by The Ocmulgee National Monument.

According to evidence found by archaeologists, the first Indian tribes camped beside the Ocmulgee River about 10,000 years ago. These nomadic Paleo-Indians, among the earliest of human cultures, hunted the area's lush woodlands for large mammals. Modern excavations revealed that several different types of tribes eventually followed the Paleo-Indians over time to the Macon area. Around A.D. 900, one particular culture seems to have abruptly taken up residence here although little is known about their origins. Called early Mississippians for their likeness to the cultures of the Mississippi River Valley, they formed the first known large town on the Macon Plateau. They were master farmers, growing corn, beans, squash, pumpkins, sunflowers and tobacco with wooden, bone, and stone tools. Decorative ceramic pots and rudimentary game-like equipment suggest they stored enough food to enjoy leisure time for pursuing arts and entertainment.

About 300 years later, the Macon plateau stood deserted and remained uninhabited until a late Mississippian town (referred to as Lamar by archaeologists) sprouted three miles down the Ocmulgee River. These ingenious people built two earthen mounds here, including one featuring a unique spiral ramp and the last known to exist in this country. The Ocmulgee National Monument, founded in 1936 and operated by the National Park Service, preserves these mounds and treasured relics of the past.

A New Town from the Old

Ocmulgee National Monument Indian mounds.

The Ocmulgee National Monument and its Indian mounds offer a tranquil setting in which to appreciate the area's long history.

The Muscogee, Hitchiti, and Yamasee Indians belonging to the Creek Confederacy controlled most of the area now known as Georgia. When DeSoto discovered these Indians on his travels in 1540, the Creeks were flourishing amid plentiful natural resources. Hoping gold was one of those resources, DeSoto explored the area in depth. He made both friends and enemies among the Indians, but found only tiny quantities of precious metals. Notably, DeSoto recorded the New World's first Christian baptisms on the Ocmulgee riverbanks as two priests accompanying him performed the rites for two Indians.

Following DeSoto's early expeditions, Europeans steadily sought land on this new frontier and forever changed the Creek way of life. Histonans estimate that the Indians lost about three- fourths of their population to foreign diseases, while many suf- fered from the insatiable European desire for land. President George Washington appointed Benjamin Hawkins, a distinguished American officer of the Revolutionary War, to negotiate with the Creek Indians in 1785. The state of Georgia, entered fourth to the Union in 1788, pushed for the removal of Indians westward. This effort received unprecedented popular reinforcement when Eli Whitney, then living in Georgia, invented the cotton gin in 1793. Simply, the agricultural-based economy demanded more and more land for cultivation.

Ocmulgee National Monument Indian mounds.

Sorrowfully long lines of Confederate and Union graves in
Rose Hill Cemetery tell of the Civil War's cost to the area.
Photography by Ken Krakow.

Through the treaty signed in 1805 by the United States and the Creek Indians, the Ocmulgee River became the southwestern boundary of the new country. A year later, President Thomas Jefferson authorized the construction of Fort Hawkins, named to honor Benjamin Hawkins and his years of Indian negotiations. The fort's mission was to protect the new American frontier, and it served as a primary distribution point for troops fighting in the War of 1812 with Great Britain and the Creek War of 1813. Fort Hawkins continued its operations as a trading post or "factory" for a few years after the Creek War before it fell into disrepair. A replica of a portion of the fort stands at the site today on Macon's Emery Highway.

Macon Establishes Itself

By 1821, white settlers claimed much of the lands around Fort Hawkins and wagons continually arrived with newcomers, especially from North Carolina. The citizens renamed Fort Hawkins "Newtown" and quickly formed a bustling community complete with its own ferry across the Ocmulgee. When the Indian lands between the Ocmulgee and Flint Rivers became available after the 1821 treaty, state legislators created Bibb County in 1822. They named the new county for Virginia-born Dr. William Wyatt Bibb, who later became governor of the Alabama territory. The legislature also decreed that the county seat would be the city of Macon, in honor of modest North Carolina patriot and statesman Nathaniel Macon.

Fort Hawkins replica.

A replica of a portion of Fort Hawkins stands on Macon's Emery Highway
at the site where the original Fort served as a distribution point in The War of 1812
and The Creek War of 1813. Photography by Ken Krakow.

Five appointed commissioners began the task of laying out the town in a relatively undisturbed bend on the western bank of the Ocmulgee River. Local legend says that they were inspired by the ancient city of Babylon and envisioned a "City in a Park" -as Macon came to be called. When designer James Webb completed his survey, he planned for unusually wide streets named "for the trees of the forest through which they were laid." Cross streets were numbered from First through Seventh. Only Cotton Avenue, already in place as the Old Federal Road, angled through town and provided cotton wagons a direct route to the river.

In 1823, Macon's 20 half-acre lots were eagerly purchased, bringing fast-paced growth and lasting change. Newtown now fell within Macon's boundaries and residents hurried to build a bridge across the Ocmulgee to connect the town's two riverbanks. Georgia's first railroad survey in 1825 paved the way for Macon to become the state's central city. Macon's citizens debated whether to spend money on building canals and deepening the riverways or to spend resources on the uncertain possibility that railroads would become a key transportation method in the South. The rail advocates won out, and soon Macon led all other Georgia cities in efforts to maximize the potential of train traffic. Even in the city's infancy, foresight and determination characterized the citizens settling here.

Healthy and Wealthy Before the War

Downtown historic buildings.

Downtown is full of architectural details as seen in this recently renovated historic building. Photography by Dorothy Hibbert Krakow.

The romantic notions of Southern antebellum life exaggerate the actual conditions here, although Macon certainly prospered from cotton trade. Its centralized location, easy river access, and blossoming rail services drew business from all around the region. Merchants set up shop, warehouses expanded, manufacturing began, and trade boomed; Macon lost its image as a fronteir town. Toasted as the "Queen Inland City of the South," Macon saw its wealthy residents build gracious mansions and in-town cottages as retreats from the surrounding plantations. Many of these antebellum homes are preserved and listed on the national registry.

In all of the South, Macon's Hay House stands out as a remarkable example of pre-Civil War mansions. Instead of the white-columned Greek Revival style fashionable then William Butler Johnston and his wife Anne opted for a 24-room Italian Renaissance Villa of 18,000 square feet. The innovative infrastructure included indoor plumbing with hot and cold running water, a central heating system, an elaborate ventilation system, speaking tube intercom system, and a coal lift. These innovativations combined with the marvelous interior decoration made the house a modern masterpiece in the mid-nineteenth century. Not surprisingly, this "Palace of the South" listed at over $100,000 when other mansions in Macon cost about $6,000 to $12,000. Johnston bequeathed the home to his daughter and her husband, Judge William H. Felton. Later, Parks Lee Hay purchased the stunning mansion and renovated much of it. Following Mrs. Hay's death, the Hay family donated the home with some of its finest belongings intact to the Georgia Trust For Historic Preservation in 1977.

The Hay House captures the mythical glamour of the King Cotton era. However, most local residents did not live in such splendor. They were farmers who grew cotton on fields of 100 to 500 acres worked by 30 slaves or less. In town, slaves accounted for about 40 percent of Macon's population and despite their bondage, they demonstrated the same resourcefulness and determination common to all Maconites. Of Macon's 20-some free colored people, Solomon Humphries won the respect of both white and black alike as a profitable town merchant and cotton dealer. Major John Humphries freed Solomon and encouraged him to find his own fortune. "Free Sol" built one of Macon's first stores in 1824 and employed whites, even though he was required to have a guardian (Charles J. McDonald) and held no legal rights. Free Sol later purchased his father and wife and the state legislature emancipated the two in 1834.

White or black, all who lived here in the nineteenth century enjoyed Macon's relatively healthy living conditions. Unlike other Southern cities plagued by yellow fever or cholera, Macon recorded no cases originating here. The city also maintained many parks to help ensure a healthy spirit. One of the town's early leaders, Simri Rose, passionately learned horticulture in addition to his duties as a newspaperman and government representative. His love for flowers still lives in the many parks cascading through Macon's downtown and in the tranquil "garden of graves" overlooking the Ocmulgee River, now known as Rose Hill Cemetery.

Academic, philosophical, and cultural pursuits thrived during the prewar days, as they would again after Reconstruction. Schools and colleges granted degrees to both men and women. Spectacular churches graced the streets. Artists and performers frequented the town as the railroad and waterways kept Macon at the center of attention. Progress pulsed through the community. But the rumblings of abolitionists and states' rights supporters soon exploded into a war that would test the temerity of Maconites and all Southerners.

Macon Escapes the War's Ravages

Hay House.

The inner hallway to the distinctive Hay House, a national historic landmark, shows the clever trompe l'oeil finishes on the walls. Photography by Ken Krakow.

With the onslaught of the Civil War, Maconites stood ready. They rallied behind the Confederacy, and Bibb County sent more troops into battle in proportion to its population than any other county, according to nineteenth-century historian John Campbell Butler. Thomas Hardeman led The Floyd Rifles, one of Macon's troops, and hoisted the first Confederate flag in the state. The city's foundries and factories quickly switched to producing armament and uniforms, and Macon became the center for Confederate armament operations and its depository since most of the state's rail lines met here. The central location, insulated from the major fighting, prompted the state capitol to temporarily move to Macon from Milledgeville in late 1864.

The Cannonball House. The Cannonball House and Confederare Museum. This 1854 home
sustained minor damage when a Union cannonball sailed into the front
parlor during the attack on Macon in 1864. Photography by Ken Krakow.

Macon survived "The War Between the States" virtually unscathed. Despite many threats, there were only a few skirmishes near the war's end and the city didn't fall to Federal occupation until 1865 after Robert E. Lee had surrendered. When Major General W.T. Sherman brought his "March to the Sea" to Middle Georgia, he chose to bypass Macon. He instructed Major General George Stoneman to attack the city instead and liberate the Union prisoners at Camp Oglethorpe. The glory-seeking Stoneman left but one mark on Macon with a cannonball lofted from the eastern bank of the Ocmulgee, probably intended for the Hay House (Unionists believed the Confederates had hidden the depository there). The ball landed unexploded in the parlor of Judge Asa Holt's home and it is on display today at the original site, now called The Cannonball House and Confederate Museum. Stoneman failed his mission and ironically found himself imprisoned at the same camp he sought to free.

Reminders of the devastating war remain visible in the city today. Several beautiful monuments stand as sentinels of the past throughout downtown. Eastward on the Dunlap Trail at the Ocrnulgee National Monument, the earthen works still mark where the outnumbered Macon soldiers forced a Union surrender at the "Battle of Walnut Creek." The sorrowfully long lines of Confederate and Union graves in Rose Hill Cemetery also tell of the war's cost to the area.

Rose Hill Cemetery Entrance.

The entrance to the historic Rose Hill Cemetery. Photography by Dorothy Hibbert Krakow.

An uncertain future loomed ahead of Maconites when the war ended. The prosperous days seemed a distant memory, but the citizens gathered what remained of their pride and rebounded with remarkable passion and speed. They helped to refurbish some of the 1,400 miles of tracks and rail equipment wasted in Sherman's conquest, rebuilt their farms, and restarted their industries. The freed blacks participated in this recovery as well, and while segregation would continue for almost a century, many outstanding black citizens would help pave the way for Macon's success. In all, post-war Macon embraced progress like a long lost friend, bringing the Central City of Georgia to prominence in the South again.


CHAPTER TWO: The Business Climate
MACON, GA - Table of Contents

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